Here are your quiz questions for today – who wanted to build the Athens of Florida and what city is it?
Tick tock. Tick tock. Time is up. Got your answer?
The correct answer is: Henry DeLand, the baking soda magnate from New York who wanted to build an Athens of Florida in the late 1800s.
DeLand was destined to be the Athens of Florida
Truth be told, Henry didn’t even want to come look at the high ground area covered with pine trees and he definitely whined about the rough trip by horseback, including crossing the St. Johns River, to get there. But his brother-in-law, who wanted to plant orange groves, insisted on the visit so Henry came along.
Surprise! He loved it. Went home to eastern New York and began drawing up city plans for the Athens of Florida. Henry returned bought property near a small village called Persimmon Hallow in 1876 with a simple alluring premise – settlers could buy land from him but if they didn’t like the area he’d buy the property back within two years. The city was incorporated as DeLand in 1882.
Growth ebbed in the face of fires and freezes and grew with exquisite buildings of brick and masonry meant to withstand fire. DeLand Academy, founded by you know who, eventually became Stetson University with buildings so beautiful in the classic tradition that they are on the National Register of Historic Places.
Volusia County Courthouse moved to DeLand in 1886. Rebuilt in 1927 it is without a doubt one of the most beautiful in Florida, surrounded for a full block by a park and walkways. Courthouse business has moved but go inside to see history exhibits, paintings by Jackson Walker and visit the courtrooms.
A piece of a mural on the old DeLand Naval Station in downtown DeLand
And the trees – old oak trees still exist because people then (1800s) are just like people today – they wanted tax breaks. In 1886 you could take 50 cents off your taxes for each oak tree planted that lived for one year. Residents planted so many trees the tax break had to be stopped because there was not enough money from taxes to pay the town marshal. But the tree legacy endures.
If Henry DeLand rode into his city today his jaw would drop. His Athens is alive and well. Downtown DeLand rocks along Woodland Boulevard and the side streets. Stores in historic brick and concrete buildings showcase art galleries, jewelers, restaurants, coffee houses, antique emporiums, the famous Muse Book Shop, the Athens Theatre, a new Florida Museum for Women Artists, a bike shop that wheels in classic bikes – the list goes on.
DeLand – Athens theater
Downtown DeLand has restaurants, antiques, arts
The entire downtown has been revitalized through a MainStreet program, now 25 years old, with enhancements that invite genteel walking. Wide sidewalks flow past planters overflowing with flowers and partnered with nearby benches. Many restaurants have outdoor seating, perfect for this fine fall weather.
Discover DeLand has a really cool list of 102 things to do in DeLand. Let’s make our own list and start with three theme walks.
You’ll want your walking shoes for three specialized walks.
The DeLand Mural Walk has 15 murals, and counting, that grace the walls of old buildings. Look for an illustrated booklet describing each mural. We found ours at the Muse Book Shop at 112 South Woodland Blvd. Janet Bollum, owner, is a fountain of information on what to do in DeLand.
Still interested in Henry? Mural No. 1 is “Henry’s Vision” at the northeast corner of Wisconsin Avenue and Woodland Blvd. A new mural, not in the booklet, is a sepia-toned historic moment called “A Conversation over Chess in 1929” by artist Jill Cannady. It is on a wall bordering Chess Park, a walkway next to the old Courthouse that runs between two blocks.
DeLand sculpture
Chess Park has chess. A lovely three-panel waterfall at one end, built in tables with chessboards and even a chessboard built into the sidewalks, are all inviting.
DeLand walkway
Bring your chess pieces. Bring a brown bag lunch. Trees shade the tables. We liked this spot a lot.
waterfall at Chess Park, DeLand
The Museum of Florida Art has a DeLand Sculpture Walk with 12 pieces positioned in downtown DeLand through 2010 and 2011. The hope is that sculptures will be purchased and remain in place. Brochures with a locator map are free and available at most downtown stores. This is an easy and fun walk.
Two sculptures caught my attention – “Peace” by Joan Baliker of Ormond Beach, a bronze done in 2003, and sits at the north entrance to Chess Park on West Indiana Avenue. “Anniversary Spiral” by Gretchen Lotz of Orlando, a bronze done in 2010 is situated in front of Mainstreet Community Bank at 204 S. Woodland Blvd. and looks like was made exactly for that spot.
DeLand – street art
The Persimmon Hallow Quest is a River Quest treasure hunt using GPS coordinates. It begins at the northwest corner of Woodland Boulevard and Rich Avenue outside Hunter’s Restaurant. Get a free brochure at West Volusia Tourism Advertising Authority at 116 West New York Avenue, off Woodland.
A suggestion that is not a formal walk or quest – wander around Stetson University campus. Beautiful landscaping and buildings plus a nice surprise – the Gillespie Museum of Minerals with its collection of 20,000 mineral, rock and fossil specimens. Hours are limited – Tuesday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Adult admission is $2.
All this wandering will make you hungry. We ended up at Manzano’s where their bread is flown in from New York every day. Trust me, half a sandwich is enough for two meals. They are huge. They are wonderful and the bread is so good they sell it by the loaf.
Manzano’s, 120A North Woodland Avenue, is one of three businesses located inside the old Volusia County Bank build in 1909 with massive Greek columns announcing the front entrance. Manzano’s Facebook page keeps you up on the latest hours and happenings.
Being somewhat addicted to coffee (all right, totally is a better word) we ended up at the Boston Coffee House, 109 E. New York Avenue. We were too stuffed from Manzano’s to stay for a meal but the lunch menu looked most attractive. This coffee house regularly wins the best coffee awards for West Volusia and in Florida Living magazine.
Henry rode here on a horse. You arrive by car today or is a motorcycle your thing? DeLand has Thursday Thunder Night the last Thursday or each month from 6-9 p.m. Stores stay open late. Signs direct you to motorcycle parking and a DJ will spin music.
DeLand loves a festival or two or more. The weekend before Thanksgiving, Nov. 20-21 is the DeLand Fall Festival of the Arts, each day from 10-5 in the downtown historic shopping district.
A heads up about parking in DeLand. Look closely at the times. You may be wandering around for four hours and your car is in a two-hour spot. Oops. Go onto the side street where times are longer, say three hours.
Enjoy a day in DeLand. This Saturday Morning Magazine story is the first of an ongoing series of stories on authentic Florida towns. When you go, give me your feedback!
walk in peace
Lucy
Lucy Tobias is an author, artist and photographer living in Ocala.
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