Tarpon Springs Gives a Taste of Greek Life

I’m smiling and it is not even time for lunch. But I know lunch will be at Mama Maria’s, a family run Greek restaurant with marvelous food. Oh yes.

First I find my way to Dodecanese Boulevard, home of the famous Sponge Docks Fishing Village.  It surprises some folks used to synthetic attractions that the Sponge Docks are the real deal. Sponges for sale came from the Gulf of Mexico, harvested by Greeks who first learned the sponge trade long ago along Greek waters.

Wool sponges good for washing cars - at the Sponge Docks, Tarpon Springs. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobias

Wool sponges good for washing cars – at the Sponge Docks, Tarpon Springs. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobias

No street parking here but plenty of parking lots at $2 to $3 a day. My choice was the lot behind Simone’s Gifts, $2 parking all day. Pay on the honor system by going in the store. Then you get a coupon for 25 percent off anything you buy in the store.

Let the shopping in Tarpon Springs begin.

Business owners are outside their shops, patrolling the sidewalks, actively fishing for tourists.

Want to take a half-hour boat trip and see a sponge diver go down and bring up sponges? “Step on board – boarding now,” declares a mustached man at St. Nicholas Boat Line (727-942-6425). The cost is $8 for adults, $4 for children ages 6 to 12; less than six years old are free.  The really cool thing is the diver dressed in traditional diving equipment – now that is a photo opp.  Done this cruise before and highly recommend it for all ages.

A Yanni’s restaurant employee hands out a flyer filled with coupons.

“You can do dockside dining,” she tells me. That could be a plan.

“Go on a river cruise, see dolphins,” hawks a man wearing a sailor’s cap. This is Spongeorama’s Cruise Lines with a number of trips – this one is the two-hour island beach dolphin cruise at $18.95 for adults, $17.95 for seniors and $9.95 for children.

Spongeorama has a robust museum of vintage diving equipment and a sponge diving movie – all free.

Spongeorama, Tarpon Springs - free museum/movie. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobias

Spongeorama, Tarpon Springs – free museum/movie. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobia

I enjoy the banter but opt for staying on land and moseying along the sidewalk.

Moseying is rewarding. Shops put their wares outside, colorful content filling up the sidewalks – big baskets of sponges, different kinds for different things, racks of bright colored dresses, shell bracelets, flip flops, hats. One store says they have toys inside that speak Greek.

It is too early for lunch but never too early for Greek coffee and a baklava or saragli. I stop at the Bakery and Restaurant, 709 Dodecanese Blvd. For me, this is a rite of passage. I always stop here for coffee and a pastry! And yes, I always buy some real sponges – especially like the small ones, good for painting and projects.

Temptation at the baker and restaurant, 709 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobias

Temptation at the baker and restaurant, 709 Dodecanese Blvd., Tarpon Springs. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobias

Tarpon Springs has two “must see, must do” areas – the Sponge Docks, and downtown historic Tarpon Springs. The Pinellas Trail runs through the heart of the historic district. Bicyclists love it.

“When the rail line closed, Pinellas County wanted to turn their portion into a Rails to Trails, every town had to pay to pave over their portion,” a guide tells me at the Tarpon Springs Area Historical Society Railroad Depot Museum at 160 E. Tarpon Avenue. Whew! Try saying that name three times fast.

Here is a creative twist – the Tarpon Springs Chamber of Commerce is located inside Artists’ Faire, a cooperative fine arts gallery, with all local artists, at 111 E. Tarpon Avenue.

An easy downhill walk on Tarpon Avenue leads to Craig Park and beautiful Spring Bayou. The Heritage Museum is here, only open to the public Tuesday, Thursday and Friday from 12-4.

Tarpon Springs has history tours, Greek food & bayou parks

Springs Bayou, Tarpon Springs. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobias

Springs Bayou, Tarpon Springs. Photo by Lucy Beebe Tobias

The museum has a series called “Lunch & Learn” The next one is Tuesday, July 9 with Author Craig Pittman talking about his book “The Scent of Scandal: Greed, Betrayal and the world’s most beautiful Orchid”. Cost is $17 for non-members. Sponsored by Tarpon Arts

Near the Bayou are two quietly famous places. One is the Universalist Church, 230 Grand Blvd., and home of George Innes Jr. Paintings. Only open to the public on Tuesdays from 10-2 (this is because a church quilting group meets then and the church is open) or call for an appointment (727-937-4682).

The Safford House Museum, a restored example of Florida vernacular architecture (think wraparound porches to catch the breezes) on Parkin Court (just one block from the Universalist Church) actually used to sit on the bayou. Built in 1883 and enlarged several times, Safford’s widow sold the valuable waterfront property to pay debts, had the house put on log rollers and moved 100 yards west.

Note: Safford House does a Victorian Christmas and decks the house from top to bottom. Days are Thursday Dec. 13 from 11-3  and Friday, Dec. 14, 2013 from 5:30 to 8. Cost is $10. For advance tickets call (727) 942-5605.

On a regular basis Safford House is open Wednesday and Friday from 11-3 a docent led tour costs $3 per person.  Yes, I know, it is unfortunate the Universalist Church and the Safford House are not open on the same day, then it could be a “twofer”.

Is it time for lunch? Yes. My choice is Mama Maria’s Greek Cuisine on North Pinellas Avenue (about two minutes from historic downtown Tarpon Springs). Been here before, vowed to come back.  Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. closed Tuesday.

For lunch I choose the grilled calamari, so good I sent my compliments to the chef. It is a tough job but SOMEBODY has to test the food for travel stories. So glad it is I.

I’ve never figured it out, who’s who, but everyone is related at Mama Maria’s, owned by Costa & Michael Koursiotis. Next door is the Eco Bean Organic Coffee House with a sign saying they are celebrating five years of “great coffee, healthy treats, friendly vibes and good times.” Hours are Monday through Friday 7-7, Saturday 8-7 and Sunday 8-3.

A coffee to go and it is time to go home. Ah, Tarpon Springs, such an effervescent place rich with the taste of Greek life, an interesting past and good times. I’ll be back.

First Announcement

Mary Margaret Manatee, a 38-page picture book for young readers and families will be launched on Monday, Sept. 9, 2013 at the Newton A. Perry Aquatic Center located west of the tennis courts at College of Central Florida, Ocala.

Hours are 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. At 11 a.m. Matt Manatee from the Ocala Star Banner will be on hand to meet and greet Mary Margaret Manatee and you! Refreshments served. Book signing and book reading. This is a free event and open to all.

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